Touring Archive

Touring Through

Posted April 26, 2013 By Frank
They started in Marina del Rey

They started in Marina del Rey

When I see bike tourists I always want to stop and chat; that’s because, when I’m in the saddle, meeting people is the best part of touring.

I saw these 3 idling in the shade at Jamboree and Coast Hwy. I wanted to make sure everything was ok; they were just taking a break. They started the day in Marina del Rey and were headed to San Diego tomorrow, eventually Phoenix. All 3 were from Minnesota.

“Are you camping along the way?”

They told me they were hitting hotels on this 2-week excursion. I could relate; I never want to carry the tent, sleeping bag and cooking utensils — a hot shower and a comfortable bed feel great when touring.

They liked all the bike lanes they were finding. I offered a suggestion as they approached Laguna Beach: look for Cliff Drive on the right.

I told them I like to tour, too. We’d all done the Erie Canal it turned out.

Yeah, I’m goin’ to pick up my new touring bike; it’s ready today.

They probably hear that all the time…

My new Salsa Vaya touring bike

My new Salsa Vaya touring bike

Follow Mark, Doug and Russ’s adventures.

Mystery of the Year

Posted December 26, 2012 By Frank

My Victoria mascot, Skunky

My Victoria mascot, Skunky

It’s been a great year of cycling adventures, but not without its mysteries.

Here’s my last photo of Skunky, my mascot for the 8-day family bike tour of Victoria B.C. and the San Juan Islands this August. This tour would be how I celebrated my 60th birthday. Who knew I’d pay such a price?

My son had “The Claw” lashed to his bike rack; it took me a few days to find my own distinctive amulet.

Every touring bike should have its mascot, here, the Claw

Every touring bike should have its mascot.
Here, my son’s “The Claw”.

Who knows how Skunky escaped? He would’ve been tossed into the trunk of the taxi at the end of our travels; then in my haste at the airport, he was lost forever.

Culture Clash

Posted November 21, 2012 By Frank

Classic Dutch beauty

The basket looks like it weighs more than the road bike I was ogling this morning.

Since then I’ve been suffering a bad case of culture clash. Let me explain.

In 8 days in the Netherlands last week I saw 10,000 bikes, but only 3 road bikes and no carbon fiber beauties like the one I was hefting at 10am this morning at the mid point of the Pre-Thanksgiving Ride. John lured us into Out-Spoke-N in Sunset Beach; I went of my own free will. The siren song of the carbon fiber bikes we found there, well, if the bike itself didn’t move your soul, Derek might’ve when he mentioned his Black Friday deal: 25% off, no sales tax either. Get me out of here.

I start rationalizing, “Five bikes is already too many to maintain; I’ve got to trim the herd.” No one is convinced; we’d all love one of those skinny tire beauties.

But I’m a poor candidate for a fancy carbon fiber road bike; for one, I’m riding with a broken neck and the drop handlebars are out of the question. But I’m squirming for other reasons, like my recent observations of the Dutch – they ride utility bikes, practical, lead-heavy, with fenders and tires so fat and wide that I can imagine a comfortable, if slow ride. They sit upright, as God intended and they run errands on these bikes.

Contrast this with what we do. Most of us ride skinny tires on ultralight bikes; we ride long distances, for recreation, for exercise. We run errands with the car, in part because our carbon fiber bikes won’t accommodate a bike rack or panniers.

That’s a big cultural difference.

Everyone rides upright in Rotterdam

Saturday Errands

Posted November 17, 2012 By Frank

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It warmed up a little late this afternoon in Amsterdam; that’s what a light rain can do.

The city is jammed with tourists of all types. Because I’m alone I especially notice all the couples, but the locals are out and about, too. Like at home, people are running errands; the shops are busy. Likewise the coffee shops where it’s legal to smoke pot. Walking around I get a whiff and it takes me back to my college days.

The innermost streets are blocked to cars; it’s one more way the Dutch promote bicycling. And the bikes swarm across the city. Late in the day I stumbled upon a bike boulevard of sorts, so I tucked myself between parked cars to catch some shots.

I’m doing some shopping myself; workin’ my Xmas list.

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Amsterdam at Dusk

Posted November 17, 2012 By Frank

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A new friend took the train in to spend the day with me; Rene Reijtenbagh administers an angel group. He’s an entrepreneur, an investor and we’re both raising two boys, too, so we have lots in common.

We walked and talked and when my feet got sore, Rene waited patiently while I tried on a new pair. I’ve bought and discarded two pairs on this trip. Feet of glass, I tell everyone. Now that I’m in a pair of Nike’s and out of the dress shoes I’m faring better.

We stopped at a hotel restaurant in one square; Rene picked it because the cafe was named after his mother, Mathilde; a little nostalgic, but as good as any reason to sit and relax.

The day flew by and soon I’m walking him back to Centraal Station. It’s a madhouse of bikes, pedestrians and to a lesser extent automobiles. This is my fourth trip to and from the station so I surprise Rene with my sense of direction. His parting words, “We’ll never forget this day,” and once again I’m a little choked up as I turn and walk away alone. He hinted of a conference in February where I might be invited; I’d be back in an instant.

As I walk back to the hotel along my now-familiar route, it’s Amsterdam’s rush hour and bikes more so than cars are zooming along the paths. Most of the infrastructure is sidewalk, separated bike path then the car travel lane. Mopeds qualify for the bike path; it’s two-wheelers of any kind. I must be on a thoroughfare of sorts because the bikes are coming towards me with the haste of homeward-bound commuters. Due to the failing light, the camera more easily blurs the motion, which is coincidently, my specialty with the camera and the reason I came to visit last time 8 years ago when I had a gallery showing of my dance photography. Movement is fun to capture and my eyes delight in this gloomy dusk as all kinds of bikes and riders zip by.

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My Morning in Utrecht

Posted November 14, 2012 By Frank

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Nice windows and notice the utilitarian bicycles parked everywhere – the Dutch use their bikes for everyday transportation, like taking their children to school and shopping for groceries, so the bike must be durable, with fenders.

Bikes Belong‘s Zach Vanderkooy gave me the referral; when Jeff Miller also named Tom Godefrooij, I knew I had a good interview subject. Making contact with Tom was easy enough, all I had to do was get myself to Utrecht from Rotterdam and back in time for a big event tonight. It proved to be a nice little adventure.

First I had to take the Rotterdam Metro to Rotterdam Central; every city’s train station is named like this, my eventual destination was Utrecht Central. Keeps everything uniform.

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Since I’ve arrived there’s been a small army of Erasmus University graduate students caring for my every need; when Thomas van Huijgevoort heard I was traveling to his home town he put together my entire itinerary. I think my hosts were nervous that I wouldn’t return in time for the “Get In The Ring” event tonight, so Thomas volunteered to pick me up and return me to Rotterdam. Of course, I was thinking: getting back from Utrecht would be easy; I’d know the way – getting there was going to be the interesting part. I went to bed last night knowing the route, times and even the track numbers of the train I’d be taking, thanks to Thomas.

But by the time I woke up Thomas had emailed a new, slightly more complicated itinerary. It seemed like there was a delay on the tracks between Rotterdam and Utrecht. No problem, if I traveled first towards Amsterdam and transferred at Schiphol Airport to Utrecht. I was up for anything.This addiction to public transportation can be a little tricky, but I enjoy the mental challenge of finding my way around in a foreign city.

Thomas gently insisted I take a cab from Utrecht Central to my interview and after complying I wonder how else I would have ever found it. The route to Tom Godefrooij’s office wound around the narrow streets that only natives would know; as a first timer I would still be wandering around. But this plan was precisely executed by this interview seeking vagabond. I arrived a few minutes early for what would prove to be a real treat: Tom Godefrooij has great stories to tell of the Netherlands’ commitment to cycling, where they came from in the 1960′s as the automobile started to encroach and what challenges they face as they go forward. His business is arranging tours and interviews for mostly U.S. municipal visitors as they consider making their cities more cycling friendly. I enjoyed my visit and you can look forward to listening in; I’ll be posting the interview in time for the long Thanksgiving weekend.

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The Dutch Cycling Embassy’s Tom Godefrooij

Rotterdam, Day 1

Posted November 12, 2012 By Frank

The Erasmus Bridge

The flight over was a breeze, only 9.5 hours. Still it was hard to sleep and I had too much time for mind-racing thoughts.

I’m in the Netherlands to celebrate Global Entrepreneurship Week. There’s a big entrepreneur event at Erasmus University Wednesday night; 8 teams with brilliant ideas have made it to the finals. I’m a judge. I’ve been reading their business plans and making notes; I hope to make pithy and sarcastic comments while encouraging them to persevere no matter what. These are always fun events and I’m thrilled to be invited.

My first day experiences? I’m staying at a nice, if funky, hotel on an island in the Rotterdam harbor. Once the largest in the world, it’s still damn big. My location is only a single Metro stop from the city center. All I needed was a three-day pass on the Metro, but my Visa, all three of them, were getting declined and it’s a banking holiday for all of you; cash not accepted, only coins which I didn’t have a single one. Instead I lingered on the far side of this bridge knowing that it was too far to walk and way too cold. That’s why I want to get across the harbor; I could use a nice big sweater and a new pair of shoes. There’s always tomorrow…

At lunch tomorrow I meet the man who nominated me for this role as judge, Symbid‘s Korstiaan Zandvliet. His startup is by-lined, “ownership for everyone” — it’s a Crowdfunding site.

Wednesday, with a little help from friends at the Alliance for Walking & Biking and Bikes Belong, I’ve got an interview with a local advocate. I’m looking forward to this – it means taking the train back up to Amsterdam and then off to Utrecht and back in time for the big event that night. I think I have it all planned out; it should be an adventure in itself. Stay tuned.

Oh, bikes everywhere here in Rotterdam, clustered in large ‘parking lots’ in front of many buildings. I’ll have photos once I get across that river.

Foggy Morning

Posted October 22, 2012 By Frank

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Outside the Charlottetown City Hall

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It’s a foggy 63 degrees here in Charlottetown Sunday morning. Any day could be the last of such warm weather; according to my phone’s forecast – today is. They’ve had a warm summer, winter, too, like everywhere else. Chances are that’ll repeat this year, too.

Later this morning a shuttle van will transport me to Halifax, Nova Scotia. I’ll arrive a few days early for the National Angel Summit. Long term followers will recall my 4 days on the bike in May after 4 days of business in Halifax. There are some great off-road trails here in Atlantic Canada and when you’re forced off the trails onto the roads you’ll encounter many fewer autos. Yes, it’s a long way to travel before getting on the bike, but it’s an opportunity to experience a different country, culture, too.

The fall foliage is well past its prime, but there’s a lot of color blanketing across each hillside. Toss in the definitely red soil many farmers have turned over and it makes makes for a very colorful scene.

People talk of winter’s snow and ice and each time I hear it I must ponder the possibility. It seems too coastal to get much cold weather, but I discount the northern latitudes.

Saturday night at the bar as I cut up a steak, the TV silently showed the football highlights. One amazing touchdown pass after another — I had little idea of where I was watching, until the news followed. It was a Boston station which no one seemed the least bit fazed by. So PEI’s under the cultural orbit of my home town. In a way I’m not surprised. Halifax, too, I tell friends, is the perfect New England town.

Back to that TV – no sound accompanied the flashing images, but it didn’t take long for a pattern to emerge. Scott Brown for Senate, the incumbent, followed only brief seconds later by Elizabeth Warren spots singing her praises.

Three ladies at the bar made some comment about Brown’s looks, flattering for him, less so for Elizabeth, but that was it. A bar tender should’ve spotted all this political downer and changed the channel.

As I write this I’m pleased that Starbucks has no TV.

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I’m in Halifax at the oyster bar at the Five Fisherman’s restaurant.

PEI Postponed

Posted October 21, 2012 By Frank

Was it a rash decision to scrub this ride? Or was it a bad idea to squeeze this increasingly shrinking bike tour into this busy week?

It’s been distracting, fielding the phone calls and emails from a NH attorney, my sister in Maine, and the Northwood Lake realtor. It’s just too complicated, I’ve decided, to close a real estate transaction while pedaling around PEI.

Solo bike tours have a critical component for success — peace of mind. The lonely trail is no place for a racing mind. Yesterday was some unique form of torture as I rode 5 hours in solitary. There are too many loose ends with this pending estate sale.

Of course, I should have predicted as much, but when the offers came in on my parents’ cottage on Northwood Lake in NH, I never stopped to think when the deal would close. It must’ve been right around the same time, too, that I’m finalizing the details for this bike tour. I guess that betrays that I doubted the cottage would really close, but I shouldn’t have. We had multiple offers before we accepted one — and people waiting in the wings if this deal fell through.

20121020-180204.jpgBack in Charlottetown after a change of plans.

All this after a lengthy ‘discussion’ with the agent over the listing price — you guessed it, she wanted a lower price, but I stuck to my guns. This lakefront home sits on 2 lots at the end of a long dirt road. There are no neighbors to the south for 1000 ft; this place is private and it hasn’t been on the market since 1967. No wonder we had multiple offers.

I was with my Dad the day he found the property. Camp Wah Tut Ca sits at the far end of the lake; this Boy Scout camp was where my Dad spent summers and now I was about to. But first he wanted to drive around the lake and when he got the the end of the road he stopped to stretch his legs and ask the owner if he knew of any cottages for sale. It so happens he did know and a month later my parents bought this little jewel for only $9,000, furnished, with a boat and motor, on 190 ft of waterfront.

It was the end of the season by then and subsequent summers I’d be working to pay my way through college, but my 5 siblings would spend long, lazy summers up at the lake for many years. I would meet my future wife at this lake. It’s a magical place.

But times have changed. My parents are both gone leaving me as executor. Most of my siblings are on the west coast today, a long ways from the cottage.

Like second home markets in many locales, prices have been down. Today the appraisers are the one’s who decide whether a deal closes and historic comps are low. But exceptional properties, priced right, will move and this one has. I just never nailed the closing date into my calendar.

As I started to mumble my revised itinerary to Diana at the Historic Maplethorpe, I was more than a little surprised, “I’m going to Charlottetown right after I serve you breakfast.” That the rain was bearing down on me never influenced my thinking, well, maybe a little.

By 11am I was checking back into the Charlottetown hotel where this abbreviated journey started. There were surprisingly few questions asked when I returned the bike barely 24 hours after renting it.

Tomorrow I shuttle van to Halifax where a suitcase of dress clothes awaits. Next Thursday and Friday I’m speaking at the National (Canadian) Angel Summit there, but I can easily fly down to Boston by Tuesday or Wednesday to sign the papers and close out this long chapter in all our lives.

PEI, I’ll be back.

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It’s the final day of cleaning out the cottage — 45 years of memories — everything must go.

Historic Maplethorpe

Posted October 20, 2012 By Frank

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While I’m cleaning up after my 40 mile ride, I hear laughter filtering up from the kitchen — that’s a good sign.

It’s Friday night in Bedeque, PEI and the Historic Maplethorpe is a B&B, but more — there’s a crowd gathering for a homemade super.

When I called to make the reservation, Diana was quick to say, “One for dinner? We’ll find a way to squeeze you in.”

20121020-082129.jpgLast night’s dinner was well attended.

This would be my first night’s destination, because of the dinner option. There are darned few places to eat once you leave Charlottetown. That’s one of the reasons Diana and Jim added the restaurant — scarcity of fine food. My next destination was also targeted at a hotel with a restaurant, but as soon as I made the reservation I was told the restaurant was closed for the season. Pack a sandwich, I guess. It sounds so unbelievable, I think more than a few friends doubted my claim.

Dinner is delicious and the fatigue from the ride helps me to sleep like a baby. I’ve learned there is no jet lag when you get right on the bike the first day.

In the morning it’s cool and breezy; the roads are wet and the forecast is calling for 2 days of rain.

But breakfast comes next.

I have a window seat again, but in the other dining room right off the kitchen. The little Village Store sits on the nearby corner; I can see the early morning patrons and they’re all dressed much warmer than I am. There’s a kid on a bike, maybe 6 years old, and dog walkers. I’m well off the beaten path here in Bedeque.

20121020-082146.jpgI attempt to spill a little wine on my route map.

20121020-082315.jpgIn the past year I’ve learned a lot about the health effects of wood smoke. I wouldn’t want to live across the street from this neighbor.